About 250 of our 280 or so species of wild bee in the UK are solitary bees which nest by themselves and not in colonies like Bumblebee and Honey bees.
About 70% of solitary bees live underground in burrows which they excavate themselves. The other 30% are cavity nesters which nest above the ground in standing dead wood, timber structures and cliff faces and steep sided banks.
In urban areas cavity nesting species often nest in old garden furniture using cavities where screws are missing, hollow metal railings on fences, rotary washing lines, gaps beneath windowsills and air bricks on the side of houses designed for ventilation. Some will excavate a nest chamber in the decaying mortar of old brick work. Historically many would have used old fashioned cob walls.
Ground nesting bees often nest in scruffy lawns, base of hedges and shrubbery and bare sunny ground. Often in sandy soils. In urban areas they will also nest in the sand between paving slabs.
In the modern built up environment cavities in buildings are becoming scarcer and we can help cavity nesting species by erecting bee hotels on south and southeast facing walls and fences creating opportunities for them to nest.
We can also cater for ground nesting bees by building nesting mounds or nesting planters.
The best homes are often natural features such as decaying trees and standing deadwood but in urban settings such things are often removed on health and safety grounds.
The images to the right show holes drilled into wooden fence posts with bees nesting in them.
Many shop bought bee hotels or ones offered by online retailers are badly designed and dreadful homes for bees. The cavities are too short or the wrong diameter and they are often treated with harmful chemicals, paints and glues.
You should also avoid plastic, metal and any non-porous materials as this can cause moisture to become trapped encouraging moulds and fungal growth which can consume the bee larva and stores of pollen.
The simplest bee hotel is a block of wood or log disk. For log disks use wood that is greater than 15cm thick, and for blocks of wood use very thick fencing posts or timber sleepers sunk into the ground to create a monolith. You can also use large branches and tree trunks.
Simply drill cavities into the wood using a drill. Ideally your cavities should range from 2mm diameter to 10mm diameter and be 15cm deep. Standard wood drill bits are rarely over 8cm long so you may need to buy special auger drill bits which are much longer.
You want nice clean smooth finishes to your drilled holes. Rough raggedy edges can shred bees wings. To get a smooth finish you need sharp drill bits and dry wood.
Cavities 2-3mm wide will attract Chemostoma campanularum and Yellow faced Bees such as Hylaeus communis.
Slightly larger cavities 3-4mm wide will accommodate Heriades bees which plug their nests with plant resin and a pebble dash finish of sand particles.
4-6mm will accommodate smaller mason bee species like Osmia Caerulescens and Osmia leaiana.
Cavities 6-8mm wide are great for Red Mason bee Osmia bicornis
If you create a smaller number of cavities with a diameter of 8-10mm you may attract larger leafcutters like Megachile ligneseca, Meghachile willughbelia and Anthidium manicatum.
On continental Europe its important to avoid larger cavities as these can accommodate the invasive non native Giant Resin Bee Megachile sculpturalis which is a threat to our native European Bees.
The majority of your cavities should be smaller holes to accommodate the smaller bees which are often very numerous but bee hotels seldom cater for them.
The image to the right is a bee hotel I made from a wooden Wine box. I used Elder, Bamboo, Reed stems and holes in blocks of wood as nest cavities. In its first summer it attracted 14 species to nest with 100% occupancy!

You should also expect to find solitary wasps like Ectemus and Ancistrocerus to take up residence. If your lucky you may attract spider hunting wasps like Auplopus carbonarius.
Alongside these solitary bees and wasps you will also attract parasitic insects. Some of these parasites are also pollinators, also under threat and are equally as fascinating to observe as the bees themselves. Look out for Gasteruption jeculator with its massive long ovipositor (pictured left), Sapyga quinquepunctata, colourful Chrysidid and Chalcid wasps and Houdini flies. These insects lay their eggs inside the bees nests and their larva feed on the bees pollen stores and sometimes the bee larva aswell.
I Ideally your bee hotel should be erected facing south at head height where you can easily observe the insects coming and going.
Some very small bee species only fly 50 meters from their nest to forage so its important you have bee friendly flowers growing close by if you want them to be successful.
You can also make a timber box and fill with an assortment of natural hallow materials. Choose materials of varying cavity size to accommodate different types of bees.
Some materials that work well and are easy to find include:
· Dried Cow Parsley and Hogweed stems
· Dried stems of Fennel, Sunflower and Artichoke
· Elder twigs. Use twigs up to 2 years old and remove the pithy centres.
· Bramble twigs-popular with Ceratina bees.
· Bamboo canes from your garden.
· Bamboo drinking straws
· Paper or cardboard drinking straws
· Natural Wheat and Barley straws
· Special cardboard Mason Bee nesting tubes
· The hollow stems of Himalayan Honeysuckle
· Phragmites reed stems
The thing to remember about all these materials is you want dry materials, cut them into lengths ideally 10-15cm with a solid node at one end. A solid end at the rear of the tube facing into your nest box is best because it makes it harder for parasites to invade the nest cells.
Try to include a slight overhang on the roof of your box to keep the tubes dry from rain. Cardboard and paper tubes are especially vulnerable to turning to mush if they get wet.
Lastly you may want to cover the front of your bee hotels with chicken wire to deter birds which will attack the bees nests.

Making bee hotels with children is a great practical activity that involves maths (measuring the timber), learning how to use tools safely (saw, hammer, nails, drill) and can be a good exercise for science lessons where pupils are learning about habitats and needs of species. To the right are some bee hotels I made with pupils from East London School in Stratford to place around their vegetable garden.

To encourage ground nesting bees and wasps to nest you can create mounds of sandy soil in sunny south facing aspect and they may move in and breed. The aim is to recreate the natural cliffs and scared bare earth habitats these bees use to nest.
Different species have differing preferences with regards to soil type and steepness of the slope. A good starting point is equal parts soft sand, sharp sand and loam soil. Add some grit or pea shingle – the small stones absorb heat during the day and release the warmth back into the soil at night keeping temperatures stable for the developing bees.
Few bees like very loose substrate so it’s a good idea to firm down the mix. Compacted substrate means the particles are bound close together and don’t let much moisture in and the bees burrows are less likely to collapse.
Among the few bees and wasps that do like loose fine sand are the Sandpit Mining Bee and the sand digging wasp Oxybelis uniglumis. we’ve had success attracting the latter two species to use mounds by using a fine play sand.

We have had lots of success installing nesting mounds on green roofs in the City of London. In the city centre nesting sites are particularly scarce for ground nesting species and our mounds have been quickly colonised by Bee Wolfs, Ornate Tailed Digger Wasps, Furrow and Andrena Bees. One of our mounds on the roof of 1 Angel Lane has been used by 8 species.

We build our nesting mounds using natural tree logs to create a retaining wall in a half moon shape. We then fill the centre with the substrate creating a gentle bank sloping away from the log wall to the south. Once compacted we scrape out a small area of the slope to create a small vertical cliff – some bee species prefer to nest in the little cliffs than in the slope because they are better protected from predators and parasites.
The log retaining wall can also have cavities drilled into the wood to create additional nesting opportunities. Bumblebees may nest in the nooks and crannies within the log wall. You could even install a bumblebee nest box in the wall for them.
Cob is a material that's been used since ancient times to clad homes made from wattle and daub.
Its an ideal material for species of bees and wasps that like to nest in vertical or steep surfaces and is a good substitute for natural soft rock and earthen cliffs.
To make cob mix equal parts garden clay, sharp sand and chopped straw together in a bucket until its a thick sticky consistency.
Stuff and compact into a mould to make a brick which you can then make a small wall from or stuff into boxes or crates. Allow to dry then stand in a sunny south facing position and wait to see if any bees move in.
At apicultural we've made large cob nesting boxes using old fish mongers polystyrene crates. We first paint the crates in masonry paint and then clad in a mix of weak cement powder and sharp sand. This hardens the polystyrene material and UV stabilizes it so it wont break down into microplastics. We then fill them with the cob.
We have had success attracting Hairy Footed Flower Bees to nest in these boxes.

Nice make really well manufactured bee nesting posts and sand planters for ground nesting bees. They are to expensive for most domestic purposes but great additions to landscaping projects, commercial real estate and city parks and gardens.
Products | Niche Environmental Services

This company creates well designed and well made bee hotel's which include observation windows allowing you to observe what's happening inside the tubes and monitor their success.
Nurturing Nature - environmental products, education and consultancy

This company makes large scale bee hotels which are designed to be stand alone or mounted on the sides of buildings. They can even make bee hotels in the shape of logos or a company name.

The Solitary Bee Factory by Green Gardener is quite a good purchase. Its more expensive than a Bee Brick at £54.99 but contains lots of cavities accommodating more bees, includes observation draws so you can monitor what’s using your hotel and the draws also contain champers ideal for use by spider hunting wasps like Auplopus carbonariu
The Solitary Bee Factory by Green Gardener is quite a good purchase. Its more expensive than a Bee Brick at £54.99 but contains lots of cavities accommodating more bees, includes observation draws so you can monitor what’s using your hotel and the draws also contain champers ideal for use by spider hunting wasps like Auplopus carbonarius.
Importantly the cavities are all 15cm deep so optimal depth for bees to reproduce successfully.
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